Silk Screening

All posts prior to 16-04-05 have been archived here.
User avatar
Posts: 225
Joined: Thu Aug 22, 2002 11:03 pm
Location: The town of Ham

Silk Screening

Postby Envelope » Tue Sep 10, 2002 6:12 pm

Ive been doing screen printing for a while just using stencils and crap, but i wanna make some more complicated stuff.
Does anyone know where to get the photo emulsion stuff required for it? or the activator and stuff?

any hints/tips would also be much appreciated
Official Member of the Georgy Pie Kids Club

User avatar
Scott Birthday
g33X0r d3luX0r
Posts: 1174
Joined: Thu Aug 15, 2002 6:17 pm


Postby Scott Birthday » Tue Sep 10, 2002 6:36 pm

This is no help whatsoever, but I'm keen on getting into that too. If I could be made privy to any forthcoming infomation on this topic it would be greatly appreciated.

Also, where do you get the screens from, do you make them yourself?

Also, do you need your own darkroom, or are there ones around that people of the darkroomless variety can use?

Also, umm... I forgot. Nevermind.

big brown


Postby big brown » Tue Sep 10, 2002 6:50 pm

i do stenciling too. and want like hell to get into the emultion method but cant find anywhere that sells it. i think i might go to the polytec and ask for some from the arts department....

silk screening photo emultion style is sooooo cool. anyone know andy warhol's stuff. it rulz. you can do fully detailed pictures

this is something i got off the net ages ago:
Use polyester or other suitable synthetic fabric or screen material. Do not use silk or organdy if you wish to reclaim the screen.
This is one of the most exciting methods of Screen Printing because it offers the widest range of possibilities. It makes possible the printing of fine line drawings, various hand and commercial lettering techniques, as well as photographic half-tone positives.
All methods of photographic Screen Printing require three things: (1) a screen prepared with a light-sensitive coating, (2) a film positive, or equal, and (3) a light source that will enable you to transfer the opaque images on your positive to the light-sensitive screen you have prepared.
Let's examine these requirements.

Step A--Mixing the photo emulsion
SB4558 Diazo Kit Follow the mixing instructions given on both containers. Store the sensitized emulsion in a cool and dark place. Shelf life for the sensitized emulsion is 4 weeks at 90 Degrees F 8 weeks at 70 Degrees F and 4 months when refrigerated.

Mix four parts of the SB 4574 Emulsion to one part of the SB 4574 Sensitizer. A total of 5 teaspoons of this mixture will be suff icient for approximately two-10" x 14 " screens. The mixed solution is sensitive to heat and light; however, you may work at a regular pace with normal room light and temperature. The sensitized emulsion may be stored in an opaque container (darkened area) for two weeks under refrigeration and one day at room temperature.

Step B Coating the screen
Coat the screen by first pouring a bead of the solution on one end of the bottom side of the screen. Spread it evenly and thinly with the squeegee or the plastic spreader. Use more solution where necessary. Pour a bead of the solution on one end of the inside of the screen and spread it evenly with the squeegee or the plastic spreader. Work to achieve an even continuous coating on both sides of the screen fabric. Perform the final spreading on the inside of the screen. Return any excess solution to your mixing container.

Step C-Drying the coated screen
In an area AWAY FROM LIGHT AND HEAT, set the screen to dry horizontally, bottom side down. This will provide the most even, flat "film" on the underside of the screen. It will, however, require your elevating the four corners of the underside of the frame during the drying stage with push pins or other suitable devices. An empty drawer, cupboard, closet, or under a cardboard box will work fine. Allow the screen to dry thoroughly. If more than 300 prints are to be run, it is best to apply a second coating of the sensitized Photo Emulsion to the bottom of the screen after the first coat is dry. Remember, work for a smooth, even THIN coating. Repeat the drying process away from heat and light.
Once the sensitized screen is dry, it must remain in a darkened area until it is ready to be exposed. A fan in the dark area will greatly speed up the drying of the emulsion on the screen.

Step D--Preparing a positive
With the SPEEDBALL Bichromate System, the maximum allowable time between application of the sensitized emulsion to the screen and the exposure is 6 hours at room temperature. With the SPEEDBALL Diazo System, the maximum allowable time is eight weeks at room temperature.
A "positive" is any opaque image (usually black), on any transparent or translucent surface. There are many ways you may choose to prepare them.
A excellent transparent film for this purpose is Bienfang" Wet Media Mylar. Wet Media is available in various sizes.
SPEEDBALL Screen Printing Craft Kits include both plain and printed tracing paper. The printed sheets (positives) have copy and illustrations that may be used to create a picture or message. With the plain sheets, you may make art work of your own with SPEEDBALL Technical Black Ink and an artists' brush or SPEEDBALL pens. Excellent results can also be obtained by using dry transfer or pressure sensitive letters and symbols. These can be applied directly on the tracing paper or clear plastic. The graphics must be opaque to light.
Another way of producing positives is through copy machines that have the capability of reproducing very opaquely on film, tracing paper, etc. In order to satisfactorily produce a positive using a copy machine, the following conditions must be met:
. (1) Black and white line work-Must be opaque
. (2) Photographic print-Must have high contrast
. (3) Copy machine must have capability stated above. You must check this out in advance. Photographic images can also be accurately screen printed.
However, because of the half-tones (or continuous tones) which are in all photographs, a special type of "positive" must be prepared. This must be done by someone with photographic expertise and who has the necessary equipment.
Essentially, this person will photographically transfer the halftones to Kodalith Ortho film. A dot patterned half-tone screen will be placed between the lens, and the ortho film. These "half-tone" dots will be exposed to the film simultaneously with the photograph.
The resulting "half-tone" negative will then be converted by the photographer to a "half-tone" positive.
This is the same type of "conversion" that is made in the preparation of photographs for newspaper and magazine printing. The dot pattern breaks up the continuous tones into a half-tone interpretation that can be printed.
Fine art half-tone screen printing involves a posterization process whereby a series of selected positives are produced through a process camera. With filters, the process camera can selectively identify specific colors in the original art. These are then, sequentially prepared for color registry. This is a highly technical procedure and should be attempted only by experienced printers.
For an in-depth treatment of photographic screen procedures, we highly recommend the book, "Screen Printing-Contemporary Methods and Materials" by Frances and Norman Lassiter This book 00 is available at most artists' materials stores.
Step E
Before you remove the sensitized screen from the dark drying area, make sure everything you need to print with is on hand. Set up your exposure lamp as described in step F Copy and illustrations (positives) can be fixed in place with cellophane tape. Do not let two layers of tracing paper overlap. A better alternative than taping the "positives" to the screen fabric is to lay a piece of clear glass, lucite, or plexiglass on top of them. One of these must be used if thin lines or lettering less than 1/4" tall is to be printed. Which ever you use, once you are all "positives" are in place and against the fabric, you are ready to expose the screen.
A screen using positives made tracing paper and india ink could now look something like this:

Step F-Light source
To set up your "Light Station" place the screen on top of a piece of black paper and center it 12 inches directly below a 150W clear incandescent bulb or a BBA No.1 Photoflood (preferred) Bulb. Either should be fitted with a foil-type pie tin as a reflector.
The positive can be placed in contact with the coated (dry) screen by either of the above methods.
Figure F-1 does not require the foam rubber cushion and the positive will read "correctly" as it's positioned in the screen frame.
Figure F-2 employs the use of a foam rubber cushion which is cut to the inside dimensions of the screen frame. The positive is placed in reverse (mirror image) on top of the underside of the screen.
Recommended Exposure Chart (Revised 1/77)
150 Watt Bulb, Clear Incandescent
Screen Size . 150W Bulb Height . . Exposure Time
8"x10" . . . . . . 12 inches . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 minutes
10"x14" . . . . . 12 inches . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 minutes
12"x18" . . . . . 15 inches . . . . . . . . . 1 hr. 14 minutes
16"x20 . . . . . . 17 inches . . . . . . . . . 1 hr. 32 minutes
18"x20" . . . . . 17 inches . . . . . . . . . 1 hr. 32 minutes
BBA No. 1 Photoflood (250 Watt)
Screen Size . . Lamp Height . . Exposure Time
8" x 10". . . . . . 12 inches . . . . . 10 minutes
10"x14". . . . . . 12 inches . . . . . 10 minutes
12 "x 18" . . . . .15 inches . . . . . 16 minutes
16"x2O" . . . . . 17 inches . . . . . 20 minutes
18"x2O" . . . . . 17 inches . . . . . 20 minutes
This chart has been prepared using an aluminum foil pie-plate reflector as indicated in our instructions.
More sophisticated light sources, reflectors and equipment can, of course, be used. However, as any variable is changed, you will have to adjust the exposure times and distances. This will require experimentation through the use of test strips or other light testing devices or procedures.
Turn on the light and note the time. Expose according to time and distance indicated in chart. After exposure, remove positive and take screen to sink.

Step G
Apply a forceful spray of water (body temperature) to both sides of the screen. DO NOT USE HOT WATER. Concentrate this spray on the light images on the top side of the screen. After a few minutes, these areas will become "open." Continue spraying until all unwanted emulsion is gone.
Once you have completely washed the screen, let it dry thoroughly in a level flat position.
Hold the dry frame to the light and check for pin-holes. These can be covered with Speedball Screen Filler or pieces of masking
I stuck to the bottom of the screen. If Screen Filler is used, let the screen dry again. Follow the directions found in the section, "Making Prints."

NOTE: Photo Emulsion should not be left in the screen indefinitely unless a permanent stencil is wanted.

User avatar
Scott Birthday
g33X0r d3luX0r
Posts: 1174
Joined: Thu Aug 15, 2002 6:17 pm

Postby Scott Birthday » Tue Sep 10, 2002 6:52 pm

whoa... 8O

User avatar
Posts: 225
Joined: Thu Aug 22, 2002 11:03 pm
Location: The town of Ham

Postby Envelope » Tue Sep 10, 2002 8:54 pm

che bo. that cleare up one of my main questions.
This other info thing i had said you needed a 500W bulb, and i couldnt find them anywhere.

but again, anyone know where to get the stuff?
Official Member of the Georgy Pie Kids Club

User avatar
Posts: 230
Joined: Tue Aug 20, 2002 4:47 pm
Location: hamiltron

Re: Silk Screening

Postby xmeatlessx » Tue Sep 10, 2002 10:02 pm

Real Ultimate Ninja wrote:Ive been doing screen printing for a while just using stencils and crap, but i wanna make some more complicated stuff.
Does anyone know where to get the photo emulsion stuff required for it? or the activator and stuff?

any hints/tips would also be much appreciated
hey, if you're from hamilton, I know some kids who have the knowledge, and are totally wanting to share it with people. Get in touch with me, though some PM or something, and I will give them your number. They expose screens fairly often, and all you would have to do is go along and help them out one night or something.
Do I know you by the way?
official member of the keeping it real crew

User avatar
Posts: 1027
Joined: Wed Aug 21, 2002 9:05 am
Location: Wellington

where to get it

Postby ryan » Wed Sep 11, 2002 9:30 am

There's a place in Petone, Wellington that I think does mail order.

Just Screen Ltd Screen Printing Supplies
14 Sydney St

04 568 3555

They've got everything except UV lamps, which you might need if you're doing photo emulsion.

Actually my advice is to do a course, I did a 10 week one at the adult education place, cos it's good to know all the theory, and pretty cheap to do.

Posts: 16
Joined: Fri Aug 23, 2002 4:06 pm

if your in akl

Postby CyndiVanilla » Wed Sep 11, 2002 4:12 pm

ive only done photographic screenprinting at the AUT facilities so everythings there for you to use, but theres a place in newmarket called CCG industries ltd (they're on crowhurst street) that sell almost everything you need for any type of screen printing, i dont think its too too expensive. you can buy screens there, theyre around 30-70$ depending on what size, all you really need is a screen, that blue photographic emulsion stuff, a squeegee thing for applying the emulsion, mylar w/ your picture on it, glass, a big ass light and a sink. you dont strictly need a darkroom to expose photographic screens, just a room with no excessive light (ie, shut the curtains and the door and your set.) pm me if you wanna know anything. good luck!
ps. if you wanna use your screen again w/ a different image youll need a bunch more chemicals like haze remover and things to get the emulsion off.

User avatar
Posts: 1924
Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2014 8:16 pm

Re: Silk Screening

Postby 9seconds » Sun Nov 20, 2016 11:13 pm

"Look how happy he is"

User avatar
Posts: 4652
Joined: Thu Sep 09, 2004 11:49 am

Re: Silk Screening

Postby yossarian » Tue Nov 22, 2016 3:07 pm

Fuck yeah

Return to “All archived posts prior to 16-04-05”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests